Bhutan – A kingdom sandwiched between India and China running an economy on agriculture, tourism and hydroelectric power and is one of the least visited countries in the world (which is slowly changing).
Although Bhutan was the country which tossed the term – “Gross National Happiness”, it ranks 97th out of 155 countries in the World Happiness report 2016. Countries like Saudi Arabia(37), Pakistan(85) and Nigeria(95) plagued with gender inequality, terrorism and communal tensions ranking much better than Bhutan. This simple observation inspired me to travel to Bhutan to see for myself if I would consider Bhutan a “Happy” country or not.
The number of tourists at any given time in the country are regulated by “High Value, Low Impact Tourism Policy”. Most of these visitors are either Indians or Bangladeshis who enjoy the benefit of not having to pay the infamous $250/day to visit this heavenly country. I guess, this is the only blessing of being an Indian passport holder. For now.
I spent 14 days in Spring 2017 making the most of my Indian citizenship; backpacking throughout the country and trying to understand the daily lives of the Bhutanese folks.
Here is my account:
Bhutan is not backpacker friendly and unfortunately there are no hostels or shared accommodations throughout the country. Couchsurfing is also limited to Thimphu and hard to come across active users who are ready to host. Hence, I stayed in cheap hotels/guest houses. I could have camped. Something I would definitely do on my next visit.
Met a couple of taxi drivers and asked them for their help to find a place to stay. Conversation- Resident: How much is your budget? Mokhs: I cannot spend more than Nu.500 ($8) per day on accommodation. R: (Laughing) This is peak season! You won’t get anything for less than Nu.1000. M: This is my daily budget. My Debit Card and Credit Card don’t work in Bhutan. I have limited cash and have to stay in this country for 15 days! Please help me! R: Oh! is it? Let me try and find out.
*He makes a couple of phone calls, discusses in Dzongkha* R: Can you pay Nu.700? This room is actually worth Nu.1500 and the owner is not going below Nu.700. M: Did you actually bargain for me? Are you serious? (It was 11PM and way too exhausted to let this option pass by) Thank you so much for doing this for me! R: Come with me, I’ll take you to the house.
Here are a few images of the Paro Dzong:
Few images from the trek:
Had to visit the Department of Immigration to extend my permit by another 7 days and also obtain “Restricted Area Permit” in order to travel to Punakha, Bumthang, Trashigang and Samdrup Jongkhar. The tourists and travel guides I consulted in the queue were not optimistic of me getting the Permit. They all advised me to hire a guide and book my hotels in advance if I was to be granted the Permit.
However, inside the Department of Immigration, things were much simpler and straight-forward. Since, I was travelling alone and without a guide, they asked me to write a Letter of Undertaking stating, “I alone shall be responsible in case of any accident”. Wrote the letter, submitted my forms and within 45 minutes, Voila! The permit is here! (Tip: Do not listen to other guides. You do not need hotel bookings or vouchers.)
Bumthang, literally is the most beautiful place in Bhutan! Decide for yourselves:
Since, there were no buses from Bumthang to Trashigang, I had to wait for a bus coming from Thimphu and negotiate with the driver to take me further to Trashigang (depending upon the number of seats available). It was more like hitch-hiking in a bus. Thankfully, there was one seat available.
The scariest part of my journey – Since, road widening projects are under progress in Bhutan, landslides are bound to happen anytime and without any indicator.
Pictures of the present king and queen, former kings, queens are hung in shops, restaurants, houses, dzongs and streets. Here are a few instances:
I had to return my permit to the government officials before entering Samdrup. I was way too exhausted to explore Samdrup. With just Nu.950 in my pocket, I found myself a room and dozed off. They have a vegetable market similar to that of Thimphu and a couple of Karaoke bars.
So, this was my account of the 14 days I had spent in the Land of Dragons. None of this was planned. I didn’t know what I’ll eat or where I’ll sleep or how I’ll travel and if I’ll meet cool people like Bhawana, Ozzie, Yuiko and many more! I didn’t even know if the government officials would let me inside the country on Day-1. I spent about $10-$20 a day and experienced the life of the locals. I hope you enjoyed my travel adventure to Bhutan and let me know in case of any questions regarding my journey.
And yes, I found Bhutan to be a happy country! I haven’t been to Saudi Arabia or Nigeria or Pakistan and can’t speak for them but the people are dignified and grateful to the Wangchuck dynasty for all they’ve done for this country. The people love their culture & traditions and at the same time they are curious to learn about others. It is a safe country for solo travellers (men and women) and in no case would they create problems for any tourist but they also demand the respect they deserve. There are still many areas within this country which I would like to explore & learn about and I will be back here soon!
Wow, that was a long read – but worth reading it! Hadn’t really heard much about Bhutan as with our passports, it’d cost us almost our monthly travel budget for just one day …
Thank you Torsten! I am not sure if Bhutan can match the beauty of Northern Pakistan but I’m sure the cyclists would storm to this country if they lifted the $250/day barrier. The mountain trails are exquisite and I’m glad I got a chance to cycle there! Looking forward to go back and cycle with you and Lisi, once you both are ready to visit Bhutan!
A great read Jaitegh. I was in Vivid awe by all the beauty that Bhutan inherits and how you get to experience it. I am sure next time when I come back to India, we can backpacking somewhere
Keep travelling and keep posting about new awesome places✌️
Jaitegh I enjoyed reading the whole article, well explored n well written. Awesome pics with beautiful captions. Well done beta! Keep up the good work n keep exploring more places. God bless u.
Wow I enjoyed it to the fullest Mokha! You took me back to where i grew up! Trashigang is where i grew up and through your pictures i could revisit my school and town i grew up in! It was great knowing you & Hope to cross our ways some day in future for more stories together!
Jaw dropping….
Yeah… I missed the chance to have a selfie with u friend ! U left me mesmerized with this blog and I craned down for last half an hour to read the story at a go…. Its not only Bhutan which is beautiful, its more u… ur inside out which is even more beautiful .
Wish I had one such unplanned trip with u…. May be its Alaska where we catch up!
Hi Mokha.
Thank you for your informative blog and great photos of Bhutan. I’ve been to India 5 times and am going again in August so I found your comments about India hilarious. I just got back from 3 weeks in Myanmar which is a great place for trekking as well as visiting cities.
I think Bhutan will be on my short list of places to visit .
Kerry
Hi Kerry!
Bhutan is definitely a place worth visiting if you can afford the 250$/day fee. A lot of people don’t even know about this kingdom country and the lives of the people here.
I’m glad you could relate to what I meant when I was talking about India! Myanmar must have been an amazing experience! I’ve seen pictures of my friends’ travels and it looks mesmerizing!
Best of luck for your future travels and hope you have a great experience in Bhutan! 🙂
Mokha
I am awe-struck. Your inputs and experiences you shared about the LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON have given me a virtual tour. Planning to visit the place anytime soon from Chennai, Tamilnadu. Can i take my Own Car all the way from here to Bhutan? Should I make prior hotel bookings? Am I allowed to stay anywhere of my choice in Bhutan? Me and My cousin planning to undertake the journey anytime soon. Thanking you in Advance for your reply. By the way, I found your travel Blog classy.
Hi Narendran!
Thank you for your comment! Glad you enjoyed reading this article.
You are allowed to take your own car to Bhutan, however you will be spending an entire day if not more for the paperwork at Phuentsholing. You will need to have proper documents as per Bhutanese rules and yes, you need to have hotel bookings. You are allowed to visit only Paro and Thimphu at first but after reaching Thimphu, you need to apply for a Restricted Area Permit and an extension at the Immigration Office.
Also, while driving through Bhutan you need to know exactly where all the checkposts are. You need to stop at every checkpost and get your permit stamped by the officers. If you skip them, then you might be fined at the point of exit.
That was a great article. I was really disappointed reading that minimum 200 usd is required per day to travel in Bhutan, that too with a package only. I was sitting in NDLS railway Station after my 2 weeks back packing/couch surfing in KASHMIR Valley. Very informative for a backpacker.
I am from Kerala and be my guest when you come to Trivandrum
Hi Prakash,
Thank you for your comment! The USD250 rule is not applicable to Indians, Bangladeshis and Maldives citizens. So, if you’re an Indian passport holder, go ahead and travel to Bhutan!
Thank you so much for your kind offer. I would definitely like to meet you when I visit Kerala!
Mokha
You need to have hotel bookings to get the permit. At my time of travelling this rule was not clear and I ended up without any bookings. Had to resort to some last-minute bookings(which I later cancelled) to get my permit. Other than that, there’s no problem. Also, if travelling by bus further, make sure you get your bus ticket a day in advance so that you can leave as soon as you get your permit.
Hey Mokhs, loved going through your blog. Interesting way to share your experience rather than conventional word format. It kept me hooked and gave an insight.
Few questions though:
how did you manage to find a bicycle from no where? Is this option available throughout the country?
How did you manage to find stays moving east from Thimphu?
Last, on average how much is the expense/day and also do they accept INR as you go further away from the capital?
Hi Austin,
Glad you enjoyed reading the article.
There are bike rental stores in paro, thimphu and bumthang for sure. I do not know about other cities. In bumthang the bike rental store is right in the middle of the main street and they even guide you about the routes you could take. However, during the high season they get rented quickly.
You could find a list of hotels through this website – http://www.hotel.bt .. This is how I found out about tashi yangkhel guest house.
Since i am an Indian passport holder, I spent around Rs.1000-1200 a day in the East. But, biking is expensive in Bhutan. They quoted Rs.1800 for a day in bumthang but I ended up having the bike for Rs.500 after some hard negotiating (which i still think is quite high). Yes, they do accept INR all across Bhutan.
If you’re not an Indian passport holder, you will be paying 250$ every day and will be accompanied by a travel guide who will arrange everything for you.
Nice photo blog – very accurate and well explained. I have been to Thimphu, Paro, Punakha (& till Phobjikha Valley) in Apr-18. Bhutan is just mesmerizing – lovely country, lovely people. I am attempting to travel once more and want to cover Trongsa, Bumthang (+ Ura Valley, Tang Valley ?). Wondering if the road condition beyond Punakha / Phobjikha has improved or not. Who can help me with the latest on that? Also, do they allow entry (indian tourist & vehicle) from Samdrup Jonkar side till Trongsa and back. In this way I can avoid the Thimphu / Punakha route which I recently visited.
Hi Anand,
I’m not sure if I can provide you with the latest information as of 2019 but from what I remember is that entry from Samdrup Jongkar is not possible as Indian travellers require a permit to visit cities;/towns other than Paro and Thimphu which can only be issued in Thimphu. The vehicle permit is issued by RSTA which is only present at Phuentsholing and not at any other checkpoint. Also, the roads are not good as the highway is still under construction and you should expect delays and slower travel.
Have a great time!
Great story indeed !! Reminds me of my bag packing days in Bhutan last year
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Wow, that was a long read – but worth reading it! Hadn’t really heard much about Bhutan as with our passports, it’d cost us almost our monthly travel budget for just one day …
Looking forward to more stories!
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you Torsten! I am not sure if Bhutan can match the beauty of Northern Pakistan but I’m sure the cyclists would storm to this country if they lifted the $250/day barrier. The mountain trails are exquisite and I’m glad I got a chance to cycle there! Looking forward to go back and cycle with you and Lisi, once you both are ready to visit Bhutan!
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Great job Bro ! Really appreciable
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A great read Jaitegh. I was in Vivid awe by all the beauty that Bhutan inherits and how you get to experience it. I am sure next time when I come back to India, we can backpacking somewhere
Keep travelling and keep posting about new awesome places✌️
LikeLike
Jaitegh I enjoyed reading the whole article, well explored n well written. Awesome pics with beautiful captions. Well done beta! Keep up the good work n keep exploring more places. God bless u.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Wow I enjoyed it to the fullest Mokha! You took me back to where i grew up! Trashigang is where i grew up and through your pictures i could revisit my school and town i grew up in! It was great knowing you & Hope to cross our ways some day in future for more stories together!
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Thank you Bhawana! It was great to see you and learn from you about Bhutan. It’s a terrific country! Hope to see you soon, again!
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Nice write up buddy …..
I’m planning a solo bike ride next year in April.
Keep travelling
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Loved the write up.. Excellent work. Hope to read more… Keep writing
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Jaw dropping….
Yeah… I missed the chance to have a selfie with u friend ! U left me mesmerized with this blog and I craned down for last half an hour to read the story at a go…. Its not only Bhutan which is beautiful, its more u… ur inside out which is even more beautiful .
Wish I had one such unplanned trip with u…. May be its Alaska where we catch up!
Shine Bro !
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Thank you, what a beautiful mesmerising journey I’ve been on by reading your travels through Bhutan. Quite full of magic. Vibha, England
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Wow! Wonderful travel blog friend, it was nice meeting you and thanks a lot for adding me in your blog, hope to see you in times to come.
Cheers
Pema Gyelyshen
Bhutan
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I loved your art. Best wishes. Kerry Lattimore
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Thank you so much😊
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Great content buddy..!
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Hi Mokha.
Thank you for your informative blog and great photos of Bhutan. I’ve been to India 5 times and am going again in August so I found your comments about India hilarious. I just got back from 3 weeks in Myanmar which is a great place for trekking as well as visiting cities.
I think Bhutan will be on my short list of places to visit .
Kerry
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Hi Kerry!
Bhutan is definitely a place worth visiting if you can afford the 250$/day fee. A lot of people don’t even know about this kingdom country and the lives of the people here.
I’m glad you could relate to what I meant when I was talking about India! Myanmar must have been an amazing experience! I’ve seen pictures of my friends’ travels and it looks mesmerizing!
Best of luck for your future travels and hope you have a great experience in Bhutan! 🙂
Mokha
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Hi JAITEGH MOKHA,
I am awe-struck. Your inputs and experiences you shared about the LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON have given me a virtual tour. Planning to visit the place anytime soon from Chennai, Tamilnadu. Can i take my Own Car all the way from here to Bhutan? Should I make prior hotel bookings? Am I allowed to stay anywhere of my choice in Bhutan? Me and My cousin planning to undertake the journey anytime soon. Thanking you in Advance for your reply. By the way, I found your travel Blog classy.
LikeLike
Hi Narendran!
Thank you for your comment! Glad you enjoyed reading this article.
You are allowed to take your own car to Bhutan, however you will be spending an entire day if not more for the paperwork at Phuentsholing. You will need to have proper documents as per Bhutanese rules and yes, you need to have hotel bookings. You are allowed to visit only Paro and Thimphu at first but after reaching Thimphu, you need to apply for a Restricted Area Permit and an extension at the Immigration Office.
Also, while driving through Bhutan you need to know exactly where all the checkposts are. You need to stop at every checkpost and get your permit stamped by the officers. If you skip them, then you might be fined at the point of exit.
Hope this information helps! Have a great trip!
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Beautiful detailed write up Tegh. WaheGuru
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That was a great article. I was really disappointed reading that minimum 200 usd is required per day to travel in Bhutan, that too with a package only. I was sitting in NDLS railway Station after my 2 weeks back packing/couch surfing in KASHMIR Valley. Very informative for a backpacker.
I am from Kerala and be my guest when you come to Trivandrum
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Hi Prakash,
Thank you for your comment! The USD250 rule is not applicable to Indians, Bangladeshis and Maldives citizens. So, if you’re an Indian passport holder, go ahead and travel to Bhutan!
Thank you so much for your kind offer. I would definitely like to meet you when I visit Kerala!
Mokha
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Can you tell me more about the trouble you had at the immigration office while entering Bhutan? I plan to go by myself in a month too.
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You need to have hotel bookings to get the permit. At my time of travelling this rule was not clear and I ended up without any bookings. Had to resort to some last-minute bookings(which I later cancelled) to get my permit. Other than that, there’s no problem. Also, if travelling by bus further, make sure you get your bus ticket a day in advance so that you can leave as soon as you get your permit.
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Well written, great observation and vibrant pictures, thanks so much for sharing, isn’t Drukyul a neat country!
Wish you many more wonderful journey to come
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Wow!! Awesome Pictures!!
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Hey Mokhs, loved going through your blog. Interesting way to share your experience rather than conventional word format. It kept me hooked and gave an insight.
Few questions though:
how did you manage to find a bicycle from no where? Is this option available throughout the country?
How did you manage to find stays moving east from Thimphu?
Last, on average how much is the expense/day and also do they accept INR as you go further away from the capital?
LikeLike
Hi Austin,
Glad you enjoyed reading the article.
There are bike rental stores in paro, thimphu and bumthang for sure. I do not know about other cities. In bumthang the bike rental store is right in the middle of the main street and they even guide you about the routes you could take. However, during the high season they get rented quickly.
You could find a list of hotels through this website – http://www.hotel.bt .. This is how I found out about tashi yangkhel guest house.
Since i am an Indian passport holder, I spent around Rs.1000-1200 a day in the East. But, biking is expensive in Bhutan. They quoted Rs.1800 for a day in bumthang but I ended up having the bike for Rs.500 after some hard negotiating (which i still think is quite high). Yes, they do accept INR all across Bhutan.
If you’re not an Indian passport holder, you will be paying 250$ every day and will be accompanied by a travel guide who will arrange everything for you.
Hope this helps!
LikeLike
Nice photo blog – very accurate and well explained. I have been to Thimphu, Paro, Punakha (& till Phobjikha Valley) in Apr-18. Bhutan is just mesmerizing – lovely country, lovely people. I am attempting to travel once more and want to cover Trongsa, Bumthang (+ Ura Valley, Tang Valley ?). Wondering if the road condition beyond Punakha / Phobjikha has improved or not. Who can help me with the latest on that? Also, do they allow entry (indian tourist & vehicle) from Samdrup Jonkar side till Trongsa and back. In this way I can avoid the Thimphu / Punakha route which I recently visited.
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Hi Anand,
I’m not sure if I can provide you with the latest information as of 2019 but from what I remember is that entry from Samdrup Jongkar is not possible as Indian travellers require a permit to visit cities;/towns other than Paro and Thimphu which can only be issued in Thimphu. The vehicle permit is issued by RSTA which is only present at Phuentsholing and not at any other checkpoint. Also, the roads are not good as the highway is still under construction and you should expect delays and slower travel.
Have a great time!
LikeLike